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本帖最后由 初阳 于 2014-12-1 20:01 编辑
首先感谢碧大对小阳在文字和语法上的支持
小阳最近刚开始迷恋上肉锥花，小巧精致，虽然不太受人重视，但是想想，日后一定是个新坑，很多新人一定和小阳一样需要一些经验和鼓励于是小阳没吃晚饭，用了一晚上翻译了TS博士的肉锥花种植指南，对肉锥花有了一定的了解，也希望分享给和小阳一样的小白们，这里小阳附上了原文，由于英文水平有限，如果有花友发现错漏，希望马上指正，小阳感激不尽。
向TS博士致敬
正文
Dr Terry Smale's Conophytum growing guide.
TS博士的肉锥花种植指南
Introduction
Conophytums grow in the western part of South Africa and also in south-west Namibia. This area has rain falling in the winter and with dry summers. Therefore plants in the wild are winter-growing and Conophytums persist in this behaviour in cultivation.
简介
肉锥花生长在南非西部和纳米比亚的西南部。在这片区域冬季降水丰沛，夏季干旱。因此野生植物为冬型种（冬季生长），在肉锥花的栽培过程中，也应该秉承这样的生理习性。
Watering
Conophytums have a summer “resting” period, during which time the existing leaves dry up and protect the next-season's leaves in a papery sheath. Watering is resumed about the end of July and is quite heavy for about two months, perhaps once a week depending on weather. During this period the new leaves develop rapidly, splitting the old sheath, and in most species the flowers are then produced. As it gets colder and the day length decreases in the autumn, watering is reduced to a level of about once every three or four weeks through the winter. Certain species, e.g. Conophytum calculus, start to produce obvious wrinkles when they need a drink and I use these as marker plants to determine when the collection needs water. Around about mid February, the conditions start to improve and frequency of watering is increased once more; it is during this period that the new leaves are starting to form inside the existing ones. Watering is stopped in early April and the plants enter their dry phase. I do not water my conophytums at all during the summer, but some successful growers do continue with very light watering, particularly of the smaller-headed species. Please note that any spraying or overhead watering during this period can result in tannins being leached from the sheath, discolouring the new heads below. I like my conophytums to grow as hard and compact as possible, therefore little feeding is required. I use low-nitrogen liquid feeds, once during early spring to help the new leaves form and also once in the autumn if plants have not been repotted.
水分
肉锥花有夏季休眠期，在这期间现存的叶片干枯，从而在老皮保护下，新的叶片开始生长。七月末浇水开始恢复，并要连续给两个月大水，也许一周就可以浇一次，不过这要看天气了。在这个阶段新的叶子迅速生发，冲破老皮，同时对于大多数品种来说花苞开始形成。随着天气转冷，秋季日照长度的缩短，浇水量需要减少到三周或者四周一次，这个频率贯穿整个冬季。某些物种，比如Conophytum calculus，但需要浇水就开始有明显的皱纹，我将这个现象作为肉锥花需要水的指标。大约二月中旬，天气转暖浇水频率随之增加，就在这一时段，新的叶子在现存叶子内萌发。四月初浇水停滞，植株也进入了他们的休眠期。我在整个夏季都不给我的肉锥花浇水，但是有些健壮的植株会在微量的水分供给下继续生长，尤其是小型肉锥。请注意 在这期间喷雾或者过量的水分会导致单宁（单宁对于植物的意义是防腐和保护的作用）从叶鞘中被过滤掉，从而导致了新头的褪色。我喜欢我的肉锥花尽量坚挺紧凑的生长，因此给的肥料比仙人掌少很多。我在早春使用一次低氮液体肥，例如Phostrogen，目的是帮助新叶生长，在没有移栽的情况下，秋天也用一次。
Light
The beauty of many conophytums is in their body coloration and high light levels are needed during the growing season to maintain this. Therefore during the winter, plants should be placed in the brightest possible position in the greenhouse. About the beginning of May, we often experience our first very hot and sunny days of the summer and there is a big danger of conophytums scorching at this time. In fact this is probably the biggest problem in growing the genus. The effect of the sun is often not seen until plants start growing in the autumn, when south-facing heads on the clumps are seen to be dead. In an attempt to avoid this problem, I paint white shading on the glass over the conophytums in April; removing it again in September. Alternatively if you have a small collection, move the plants to a shadier part of the greenhouse for the summer.
光照
多少肉锥花的美丽是潜藏在他们体内的色素之中，在生长季节想要保持美丽需要高强度光照。因此在冬季，他们应该被放在温室中阳光最充足的位置。大约在五月初，我们经常体验到夏季突如其来的光照和温度，这时的肉锥花将受到炙烤。事实上，这也许就是在这个阶段对于本属最大的栽培问题。日照影响尝尝不被重视，直到秋季生长季来临。我在四月用白色底纹遮光布覆盖温室，九月撤下。另外如果你藏品有限，不妨把肉锥花们放在温室的阴凉部分。
Temperature
In general I would recommend a greenhouse with frost-free conditions. In the wild, some of the conophytums that grow at higher altitudes do experience frost and snow. It should be possible to select some conophytums to grow under unheated glass (a friend grew a Kamiesberg form of C. pellucidum in an alpine house for some years). My greenhouse does not go below 3oC during the winter. Good ventilation is important, especially in summer and try to avoid temperatures over 40oC.
温度
总体上讲我建议温室一定要无霜冻。在野外，一些肉锥花生长在高海拔，的确经历着风霜雨雪，我们应该需要选拔一些能在未加温条件下生长的肉锥（有一位朋友曾尝试模拟高山高寒环境温室栽培Kamiesberg ）我的温室在冬季不会低于3摄氏度。良好的通风很重要，尤其是在夏天，尽量避免气温超过40摄氏度。
Potting
I always use plastic pots for conophytums; clay pots in small sizes dry out far too quickly. In sizes of 9cm and over, use pans rather than the deeper pots because most conophytums are shallow-rooting. Very small plants are best grown several to a pot to avoid too much unused compost. A standard growing mixture is equal parts of soil based compost and small quartzite grit, but any free-draining loam-based soil mix is suitable. Conophytums are very adaptable and it’s worth experimenting with soil mixes to find one which suits your particular conditions. Ideally plants should be repotted about once every two years, but I have many plants that have been untouched for much longer. The best time to repot is early in the growing season, July-August, but it can be done at almost any time while the plants are in growth. There actually seems to be more new root formation during the winter than in the autumn. Clean as much of the old compost from the roots as possible using a pointed label or stick and a small brush.
盆器
我常为我的肉锥准备塑料盆，因为小陶盆干燥速度过快。用9公分甚至更大的盆子，用扁盆别用深盆，因为肉锥花是浅根性的。小型植株在几近盆边的地方生长良好，为的是避免无用的基肥。有一个标准的配土一半细石英沙土，一半营养土，但是以疏水为目的的配方都是可以的。肉锥花适应性强，营养土的用量值得在你所在的实际环境中多多实验。理想状态下植株两年翻一次盆，最好的翻盆时间是生长季前，七八月，但是翻盆其实可以在生长季的任何时候进行。事实上，似乎更多的新根在冬季萌发，远多于秋季。用小签子或者刷子，尽可能的清除老根上的基质。
Pests
The genus is relatively trouble free but root mealy-bug can sometimes occur. Watering with a suitable insecticide (imidacloprid is particularly good as the active ingredient) once during the autumn is suggested as a prophylactic measure. Western flower thrips are often seen on cono flowers, but they do not seem to do any damage. Spraying with a contact insecticide during the growing season will provide some control. Sometimes snails and tortrix moth caterpillars start munching the plants and both are best hunted at night. General hygiene and appearance of conophytums is improved by carefully removing old sheathes after the new leaves have broken through. Removal of dead flowers avoids them becoming a source for botrytis.
病虫害
本属一种比较麻烦的情况就是发生根介。用合适的杀虫剂浇根（midacloprid是一种非常好的活性成分），要是在秋季建议采用物理方式。Western flower thrips（一种病虫）总能在肉锥上看到，但是似乎看不到他们对肉锥的损害。在生长季喷施一定的杀虫剂有利于病虫控制。有时候蜗牛和卷叶蛾在夜间啃食植株。枯萎的花朵应除去，防止他们成为病原的温床。
Cuttings
Old plants tend to loose vigour and are best broken up into cuttings. You can also propagate desirable plants by removing growths (bodies/heads) from around the edges of a clump, but I often find it easier to knock the plant out of its pot to do this. In both cases, cuttings should be taken after the leaves have developed properly in the autumn and September and October are the favoured months, when the plants are most vigorous. I have even taken cuttings successfully as late as February, but artificial bottom heat is usually necessary to root cuttings during the winter. A cutting should consist of just one or two growths with no more than a couple of millimetres of stem below the soft tissue. Put them in the greenhouse with your other conophytums and keep the soil moist. Rooting should take place within weeks in autumn but one or two months later in the season.
分株
年老的植株将逐渐衰退，因此最好对其进行分株。你也可以在翻盆的时候，剪下大群周边的小头来分株繁殖，我经常在盆中进行切分，似乎更容易繁殖。这两种情况下，分株还是应该在秋季新叶生长到适当大小的时候，九月十月就是丰收的月份咯，这时的肉锥花，生长最旺。我也曾经成功在二月进行分株，实在很晚了，这时正式冬季，还是需要一些人工加温的。修根最好是保留一到两毫米的主干，把他们和你的其他肉锥花放在一起，保持土壤湿润。发根在秋季的生长季需要数周，但是在生长季后就需要一到两个月了。
另：小阳在最后一段的翻译上很纠结，cutting到底是修根还是分株，大家请两方面看待，结合自己的经验哦。
小白们，在贸然入手之前，和小阳一样，学学知识哦~ |
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发表于 2014-11-15 23:49
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